My Backcountry Beginnings: 3 Washington Camping Trips for Newbies

Posted on October 6, 2011 by Beth Yost

Noisy Creek Backpackers' camp (East Bank Baker Lake Trail, WA)

There are bears out here. The thought lurked in my subconscious while we frantically tried to light our few pieces of semi-dry firewood. The sun slowly and quickly slipped behind the mountain.

We’re alone. “I knew we should have carried more dry wood in our packs,” he mumbled. “Stop smothering it,” I snapped as we gently pandered to the fragile flame. We’re a team, but our frustrations were increasing.

Was this an emergency? Hardly. It was just our first night in the backcountry of the cool, damp, Pacific Northwest.

The flame slowly escalated into something respectable, something that allowed us to exhale. The bear bag was hung. The tent was nestled comfortably between two trees. (Not the same trees the bear bag was in: an important distinction.)

Surrounded by stars and silence, we could relax. We’re pretty new at this. Moving to the Pacific Northwest was an opportunity to get out and become a little more adventurous in our camping endeavors, which was exactly what we craved.

As this summer slips into the shadow of our looming fall, I’d like to share three of my favorite backcountry camping trips from this summer with the reluctant but adventurous backcountry beginners like us, or anyone that simply enjoys nice scenery.  (I’m always taking suggestions as well, so please leave them in the comments if you’ve got any!)

If you’d like for your camping ventures to, well, venture further. Escape the car camping sites and consider pitching your tent some place a bit more remote like Sheep Lake, East Bank Baker Lake Trail, and Ross Lake. Read on for the specifics of each camp and why I’d gladly go back to each.

Sheep Lake: A Short Hike With Big Rewards

Hike: 1.5 miles (one-way)

Where: Cascade Mountains 
Start: Pacific Crest Trailhead off the Chinook Pass (SR 410)
Dog: Depends (See below)
Permit: Camping, No; Parking, Yes

Sheep Lake feels remote and it is; however, considering my backcountry greenhorns I took great comfort knowing in an emergency case scenario, shear adrenaline could get me back to the car. It’s only a 1.5 mile hike, and it’s not tough. This is also a great starter spot because you can test your pack and equipment. If you’re getting blisters or bruises from your gear on a 1.5 mile hike, you know you need to make some adjustments before going any serious distance.

Pacific Crest Trail via Chinook Pass (WA) to Sheep Lake

You’ll find Sheep Lake Tucked in the Cascade Mountains only 1.5 miles from the Pacific Crest Trailhead off the Chinook Pass (SR 410), which borders Mt. Rainier National Park and Wenatchee National Forest.

The sweat to view ratio is seriously skewed. Usually I have to work much harder to see landscape like this. The trail winds through abundant wildflowers and lush damp forest before reaching the lake which rests in a large bowl. The water reflects its surrounding mountains and tall pines, creating a cozy and ideal place to set up camp.

Sheep Lake of the Cascade Mountains (WA)

The trail continues up the mountain offering views of both Mt. Rainier National Park (east) and Wenatchee National Forest (west), but for the group with varying skill levels and novice backcountry campers, there’s nothing wrong with saving that for another day.

 This is a first come first serve spot for campers. A permit isn’t necessary and leashed dogs are welcome on this portion of the trail because it lies within the borders of the national forest which is leash-pet friendly, however the Pacific Crest Trail loops into Mt. Rainier National Park which isn’t as tolerant.  Dogs are not allowed on trails and permits are required for all campers. (I gotta dish the doggie details because we always bring our little guy, Kuma, with us—an incredibly valued member of our little pack.)

Baker Lake Trail: Over the River and Through the Woods
 Hike: 4.5 miles (one-way)
Where: North Cascades
Start: Northern Trailhead: From Baker River Trailhead #606
Dogs: Leashed
Permit: Depends (See below)

When I camp, I want a view—something to sit and ponder, something to remind me that the burdens of my day-to-day, the buzz of the world, and trends of the moment will soon be irrelevant and most likely forgotten.

For real estate with a view, this is my favorite spot so far—per the date of this post of course.

Perfect view of Mt. Baker at Noisy Creek Backpackers' camp via East Bank Baker Lake Trail, WA

Dedicate a morning and afternoon to a moderate trek beginning along the Baker River (Trailhead 606), and then winding through the woods and over a few creeks  to finally end along the east bank of Baker Lake where we set up camp at Noisy Creek backpacker’s camp.

A Northwest Forest Recreation Day Pass is required at the trailhead if you’re parking in the lot, but camping is first-come-first-serve.  The day pass is $5 per day, but if you park down the street before the sign, it’s free. Bam! Just saved you 5+ bucks!

After about a half mile from trailhead 606 along the river, the trail leads to a beautiful suspension bridge. We took a moment to filter some ice cold water, let the dog play in the river, and take a few pictures.  It’s classic Pacific Northwest with the misty air, rushing cold water, and huge moss-covered trees.

Suspension bridge at East Bank Baker Lake Trail (606) and Baker River Trail (610)

At about 3.5 miles in, we noticed a small trail from the main trial leading down toward the water. Don’t let “Lake Trail” confuse you. Most of this trail is not along a lake. You’ll catch glimpses as you wind around in the woods. But that’s okay because the woods and streams are really pretty too. We followed the small trail down to the water and found it was a perfect spot for lunch and a little breather.  People also clearly camp here. There is a nice beach, small make-shift dock, and little clearing in the woods just big enough for a tent.

East Bank Baker Lake Trial. We stopped here for a quick lunch and little rest.

We enjoyed a peaceful lunch, packed up our trash, and hit the trail again for Noisy Creek camp. With only about a mile left, the trail began to open up a bit into fields rather than forest and head closer toward the east bank of the lake. We came upon the camp where many spots have their own beach. It was 4th of July weekend when we made the trek, so it was more crowded than normal. We pitched our camp right on the beach where there wasn’t actually a spot. It was still great maybe even better.

Noisy Creek Backpackers' camp, Ross Lake (WA)

I love this camp because it offers both the water and an unmatched view of Mt Baker.  The hike is challenging enough to get your heart pumping but not so far that it takes a full day to get where you’re going, making this a nice weekend trip.

Ross Lake Boat-access/Hiking Sites via Ross Lake Resort
Hike: 1 mile
Canoe: 5 miles
Where:  North Cascades National Park
Start: Highway 20, Milepost 134 (the Ross Lake Dam trailhead)
Permit: Backcountry permit for overnight camping (free) Must get it at Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. They close at 8pm.
Dogs: Leashed

When a Washington summer provides a day above 80 degrees with blue skies and sunshine, on the water is the only place to be. This is the perfect canoeing and camping trip for perfect summer weather.  We rented a canoe from Baker Lake Resort to get us to our camp up the Lake. I called in advance to ensure they’d hold one for us and just to let them know we were coming. The resort is not accessible via road. You must hike or boat to get there. We hiked.

Renting our canoe from Ross Lake Resort of the North Cascades (WA)

We parked our truck at Milepost 134 and hiked about a mile down the trail until we reached a gravel road where there is a sign which reads, “phone” with an arrow pointing to the right–no joke. We turned right and followed the gravel road which runs along the dam. We reached the lonely phone on a power pole. Yes, seriously. We picked it up and called the number listed. It’s Ross Lake Resort, just across the water. In a matter of minutes, they arrived in a small boat to pick us up and take us across the water. This is about a 3 minute boat ride for $2 round trip.

Ross Lake Resort "Ferry"

Ross Lake Resort offers something unique for the outdoor enthusiasts. I was intrigued, but we weren’t there to stay, only pick up our canoe and move on, but visiting this area is a neat little adventure in and of itself. Essentially, it’s just made up of rustic, floating cabins. I’d love to come back and spend a couple of nights here. It’s especially nice if you love to fish, boat, hike, or just enjoy incredible scenery. I don’t know if I’d call it a resort. It seems more like a retreat.

Ross Lake Resort canoe and motor boat rental

We chose to canoe up to Rainbow Point, which we determined the night before when we picked up our permit and checked site availability. It has three sites. Distance should be a big determining factor when choosing a Ross Lake camp. It was about a 5 mile canoe trip which we thought would be perfect.  Ross Lake is full of backcountry campgrounds all along its shores so some are much closer and many are much further.

Surrounded by beautiful mountains, the canoe trip is pleasant and peaceful, however, I recommend leaving early. After about 11am, the water can become rough in spots. This would seriously change the dynamic of the trip. I’ve heard others complain of rough waters late in the day and it doesn’t sound so relaxing. It took us about 2 hours to canoe leisurely in the morning.

Rainbow Point Backcountry Site on Ross Lake (WA)

Rainbow Point has three sites, trail access, a nice beach, lots of forest to explore, and a great spot for swimming just at the dock. The three sites aren’t incredibly far from one another. I  prefer more isolated spots, but we didn’t find this incredibly bothersome. These sites are tiered; The top site is the best and boasts the best views. If you can get that one, do.  Of course, the odds are in the favor of whomever arrives earliest. Permits are for the grounds not the specific sites.

The beach at Rainbow Point. Don't mind the snorkeling pig, Consuela.

Devils Creek is about two miles further up the lake and, from what I’ve been told, a must see. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to head that way this trip. Read at the beach, take a hike, or enjoy a swim in the crisp, clear (and frigid) water.

Rainbow Point dock and great swimming spot. (Yes, it's very cold.)

I jumped in for a morning swim despite my serious reluctance, and was incredibly glad I did. I felt so refreshed, and was actually really warm when I got out since my body had adapted to the cold temperature during my short swim. It’s also very clear so the bottom is visible making it a bit more inviting. After a refreshing lake swim, cozying up next to a fire, and enjoying a hot cup of coffee while the sun peaks through the trees makes for a pretty remarkable morning.

 

 

 

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